When we were in Varanasi, we had a guy
jump into our taxi on the way from the airport, who then led us to
our guesthouse. We bumped into him a few times after that during the
week – he would hang out near a stall that did the best mango
shakes in the city (or so they say. Despite our limited experience,
we were happy to agree).
Anyway, this small, dapper little man
was named Sunny. He showed us around a couple of times, winding
through the cobblestoned alleys of the Old City, pointing out 'cheap
and best' restaurant places, sighing heavily if he thought we had
been ripped off by someone.. The first time or two we were obviously
a bit skeptical of him.. Georgie, with a mix of anxiety and
annoyance, burst out asking what he expected of us.. He seemed a
little surprised, and simply said that he didn't have any
expectation, and that he thought that friendship was more important
than money.. Which is of course a little unusual for a
self-proclaimed tour guide, but which, in the safety of a group of
people, I was happy to accept.
On our second-last day we bumped into
him again and he helped us find a good pharmacy and then another good
restaurant.. anyway one thing led to another and he ended up
inviting us to come and eat at his home the next day and meet his
mother! Ok, we said. What could go wrong?
Anyway, after a whole series of
adventures the next morning trying to find the River Ashram – which
is a story in itself (we trekked along the whole length of the ghats,
circled temples, went all the way to a cricket stadium, stopped at a
'bread of life' cafe for food, almost gave up but then a random guy
in the cafe ended up knowing it and leading us there.. and it was a
beautiful oasis of flowers and rugged old arched walls and
interesting, people-loving folks..). So yes, then we met up with
Sunny and a Chilean friend he'd made the day before, he hailed a few
cycle-rickshaws, and we headed to the other side of town.
While we were waiting for lunch (which
was delicious puffy fried puris, vegies and sambal) he told us all
about his recent trip to France. He had met this french couple a few
years ago, and they became best buddies – he called the woman his
french mama. Then last year they organised everything for him to be
able to come and visit them in France. He showed us photo after photo
of his time there, and it was so beautiful. You could just see the
joy shining in his eyes.. We'd ask him what he thought of this or
that over there, and it was always “too much, I liked it too much!”
My favourite episode was when they were
travelling out to the border with Switzerland, and the train stopped
at a station where he saw his first snow. He and the guy jumped off
the train to take a couple of photos of him in it, and the next thing
they knew the train, and the french mama, were chugging off into the
distance without him!! Oh dear. “I'll never forget that day, and
that town, where I miss my train..” he says.
He told us that some of his rich
relatives were jealous of him, because he has just his little house
with his mother - and they have so much - but they have never been
outside India, and it would be near impossible for them to get the
visa to go to Europe, like he did. And so Sunny, just through his
friendships, had been given all this..
“You know,” he says, “some people
are hungry for money, but I am hungry for love.” And as funny as
that sounds, you can see where his valuing of relationships took him!
